Venice: 3 Unexpected Surprises

Even when the sun is NOT shinning, Venice has secrets and surprises.


 In my post last week on the  Festa della Madonna della Salute Salute,                             http://tinyurl.com/qg863a5,  I promised to share the unexpected 'gift' I received on my last trip to Venice.

After 30 years of small travel (no epic round the world trips, no treks to isolated tribal villages, no backpacking for $5.00 a day)  I am a traveler not a tourist.   I search for people and places rather than museums and monuments.  And of course ANY market I can find.

As a traveler NOT a tourist, I spend time trying to understand life in the town or city I visit.    The treasures I find can be a hidden craftsman studios, a local personality, chatting with the baker or for me the biggest treasure is interacting with a local.

I have been VERY fortunate to meet several open, welcoming people during my trips:    Yvonne in Sorrento a very talented jewelry maker, Tina in Naples who introduced me the home industry of gloves , the baker in Burano, an artist in Spello who did not speak English but still did an interview with me and many more.  In Venice I met Monica.



Monica Cesarato is a powerful woman who runs cooking classes, home stay language lessons, tours of Venice that cover events not in a tour book.    Her passion for Venice is infectious.








I had met Monica Cesato via her web site and    http://www.monicacesarato.com/blog/cook-learn

Monica became an instant friend

Monica arranged a special day for me.  Since my visit to Venice was to attend the Festa della Madonna della Salute Salute, Monica knew about the special dish  castradina a cabbage and mutton ste, that is eaten as part of the festival and wanted me to meet a 'famous' woman in Venice.

Through Monica I was able to interview Ada Cato, a well known local cook who had worked at the famous Venetian restaurant, Trattoria La Vedova,  for 40 years.  Ada had the original castradina recipe.

Irma & Monica

As in Italian America families too, it is who you know!   Monica's long time friend Irma is Ada's niece!  So now I have two new friends as we walk from .Piazzale Roma.across to the other side of Venice.   Three Italian women.  Ok so one is Italian American but if I do not speak, no one will notice.


I had no idea what to expect.  Would Signora  Cato want to spend time with a stranger?  Would she think my questions shallow or worse...  Our chat started with some of the back ground of her career as a professional cook (chef), what went into the castradina, the festa I had come to watch and report on.

However, quickly our chat became much more.  Monica translated since I understand half (on a good day) of what was said.  But all three woman were kind, spoke slowly as it to a child so I understood them.   But no translation was necessary for the laughter that came with our afternoon together.  

Meeting Ada was my third gift.   The entire afternoon was a memorable event.   Even with a language barrier we were able to exchange ideas.  Not only on cooking because I have no interest in cooking (much to the shock of most Italian woman)  but we spoke about Sig. Cato's husband who was a gondolier.       She sparked an interest in a story I shall write later this year when I return to Venice. 

At the end of the day, three new friends:  Irma, Ada, Monica

How do you thank new friends for giving up their afternoon to meet and chat with a stranger?

We agreed on my next trip Ada would share her dolce recipes with me.   I do not cook but I CAN bake!


I shall see you soon.


For the recipe for Castradina, go to Monica's web site:  Cook Venice...  or plan to sign up for a lesson on your next trip Home to Italy.  

Rome: A mini guide by Agness Walewinder

By:  Agness Walewinder
Travel blogger

I was thrilled when Agnes offered to write a guest post on Rome for   Home To Italy.     

 In the comments share with us your favorite place in Rome.

 

 

-A mini guide to Rome, Italy-

If you are looking for a historical city full of stunning monuments, mouth-watering dishes, great wine, romantic atmosphere and cozy narrow streets and alleys – Italy is the place.

Whether you are planning a relatively short stay or long holiday in the capital city of Italy, you can still manage to explore and eat your way around the city pretty well.

Although I don’t believe you could see everything that Rome has to offer in just 24 hours, here are some tips and sightseeing recommendations that can help you a lot and make your voyage much easier, cheaper and definitely more fun:

The Colosseum 

How can I get to Rome?

The prices and different ways of getting to Rome depend on your current location and your budget. Rome is an easy place to get to as the city is served by direct flights from across the world and hundreds of European connections such as Ryanair, Thomas Cook Airlines, EasyJet, CityJet and Swiss.

If you are somewhere nearby Rome, you can reach the city by train or local bus, for example there is a night train connection from Amsterdam to Rome. You should firstly book a ticket from Amsterdam to Cologne/Frankfurt/Munich from where you will be directly taken to Rome. Eurolines couches have also a very flexible schedule between Paris and Rome, London and Rome or Brussels to Rome so check them out when planning your route to Rome. They are definitely worth checking out if you are looking for the best transport in Europe on the cheap.

How can I get around the city?

You should never have a problem with getting around Rome as the city has a great variety of transportation you can use from early hours in the morning till late at night.
 

Taxis are definitely the most expensive and you should always go with the metered fare, never an arranged price. A single taxi ride costs between €8 and €20, so it’s a bit too pricey.
 

Buses and trams are very convenient, yet affordable. The main bus station is located in front of Stazione Termini on Piazza dei Cinquecento. There are approximately 20 different lines which departure every 20 minutes. The most useful route I would recommend is 29N. BIT (Integrated Time Ticket) costs  €1.50 whereas BIG (Integrated Daily Ticket) costs €6.00.
 

If you feel like exploring Rome in a different way, rent a bike. It costs around €3.00- €10 a day and you will be equipped with a map of the city and a bottle of water. If you get tired, you can always take your bike on metro.
 

 

Where should I sleep?
 

The good news is that Rome is packed with budget travel hostels so you can find dorms from even $6 a night. My personal recommendation would be M&J Hostel which is one of the most hospitable and safe places I’ve stayed in the city.

Location: Via Solferino, 9, 00185 Roma.

Price: €8 for dorms (10).

Review: Cheap breakfast, great hospitality, 24 hour reception and kitchen available. Perfect location, good value for money with many facilities and amenities for the right price.
 

Pizza:  is a special experience in Italy.

What and where should I eat?

When it comes to food, Rome can be a challenge for those travelling on a tight budget. However, you can still enjoy your meals without spending much money. The city is filled up with affordable coffee shops, local restaurants where you can find good value for money.
 

I would recommend visiting Navona Notte which is a cozy pizzeria where you can order some yummy traditional Italian pizzas, seafood and pasta dishes followed by healthy salads with delicious dressings. The prices here are reasonable, and you won't have to eat again for the rest of the day. Location: Via del Teatro Pace, 44, 186 Roma.
 

If you feel like having some pasta dishes on the cheap, you must visit Pastificio where you can eat freshly prepared pasta dishes for under €5. My favourite dish was spicy tomato pasta with mince sauce and parsley on top. Location: Via della Croce 8.
 

Obviously, a day without Gelato is a wasted day so make sure you visit Come il Latte (Via Silvio Spaventa, 24/26) and FataMorgana (mainly located in Monti area) to indulge in one of the most delicious Italian treats. A typical Gelato costs around €2. Believe me or not, but gelato in Rome beats all French sweets you must try before you die!

 

What should I see in Rome?

Compulsory, the Vatican City. It’s the smallest state in the world where you can find 11 Vatican Museums with the restored Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel, and Vatican Gardens. It’s a must see place not only for Catholics, but also for all fans of history of Rome.
 

After the Vatican City, you should definitely explore the Colloseum - one of the most frequently visited monuments in Rome. It is definitely the most beautiful spot in the city and it's very easy to get there by train ( just get off at the Il Coloseo stop and it's right there). It can get crowded given its status as an important historical and touristic site so it is best to try and get there early in the morning before the crowds.
 

Another place worth seeing is famous Trevi Fortain - the most famous and photographed fountain in Rome. As you may know, the legend has it that whoever throws a coin into the pond will return to Rome, so don’t forget to do it!
 

Finally, you can finish off your day with strolling down the streets of Campo de’ Fiori – busy market filled with local vegetables and slender bottles of olive oil. Here you can indulge yourself with some Italian goodies – from gelato, bruttiboni (almond-flavoured biscuits) to cannoli (tube-shaped shells of fried pastry dough stuffed with cream).

How do you like this idea of spending a day in Rome?

Agness and Cez, from Poland

Agness Walewinder
Travel blogger

Email: agnieszka.walewinder@gmail.com

Website: http://etramping.com
Don't miss my latest eBook Travel Blogging: Build Audience, Improve Rankings and Earn Money



We are two adventurous tramps, best friends - Agness and Cez, from Poland. We call ourselvestramps, because we live without permanent home and for under 25 bucks a day, since 2011. While travelling the world, we find the time to write about it, share the tricks to do it cheaply and even help other people do the same. Come along with us!

VENICE: Festa della Madonna della Salute

The iconic Rialto Bridge

Italy has a festival somewhere, every day.
Or so it seems.   Where to go When Italy published by Eyewitness Travel helps me  find some of the events listed for the months I will be in Italia but only a
local can tell you about some of the one of a kind events.

Festivals and any outdoor market allows me to slip among the crowds and NOT be a tourist.  I can view the food they enjoy, the music and often the spirited display of tradition.


Festa della Madonna della Salute 

I planned my trip to Venice to attend this one day a year event.  A religious observance that commemorates Church of Madonna della Salute.

The Church of Madonna della Salute.sits across the canal from St Marks

From an article in Time Out Italy, by Anne Hanley a short decription of the history:

"In 1630-31, Venice was ‘miraculously’ delivered from the plague, which claimed almost 100,000 lives – one in three Venetians. (In thanks for being spared) The Republic commissioned a church from Baldassare Longhena, and his Madonna della Salute (literally, ‘good health’) was completed in 1687."

While I visited there were masses scheduled hourly throughout the entire event.  The interior of the Church was bright with candles everywhere.

But what caught my attention was the notation on several sites:   "Then everybody eats castradina  after the procession.   Castradina is a  cabbage and mutton stew.


The castradina was my motivation to attend this festival.  I had never heard of it, never had it growing up Italian and mutton was not sold in our supermercato!


So I went to an authority for answers.   My new contact Monica Cesarato, who operates CookinginVenice.com.  Her web site,www.monicacesarato.com, gives great insight to the festivals and events in Venice.   You can learn some Venetian secrets on her walking tours and food tours.

The church is a massive building that was full the evening before the festival.  I may have been the only traveler in the group of Venician faithful.

Instead of a long nave, there is a central dome and chapels against the walls.

A temporary pontoon bridge is constructed to span the canal.  An engineering feat that was supported by barges and had a 'bounce' as i walked across.    The night before the festival there would be a candle light  procession.   Vendors were setting up boots to sell candles in sizes from hand held to massive 3 feet or longer.

The Festa della Madonna della Salute was an interesting glimpse of a true Venetian event that a tourist might not know about.    I have to admit it did not get up at 5 am to view some of the events........perhaps next time.

During an interview with 3 new friends, I found out more details about the festival and the meaning to the people of Venice:

How do Venetians celebrate this special day?
1. 


What did happen is in the next story.   While researching the castradina I found something far more important.   I found 3 new friends in Venice.